Best Filters for Mirrorless Cameras for Travel and Video (2026)

A filter changes what the sensor sees before any editing starts, and that makes it one of the cheapest ways to improve outdoor shots. The best filters for mirrorless cameras in this guide cover polarizers, fixed ND, and variable ND types, so you can cut glare, smooth water, or hold a wide aperture in bright light.

Quick verdict on the best filters for mirrorless cameras

Start with the Marumi EXUS Circular PL if you want one filter for most outdoor shooting, because its antistatic coating, water and oil repellent surface, and slim frame suit landscape and travel work. The Kenko PRO1D+ Instant Action CPL is the pick for fast swaps, since its magnetic adapter lets the filter snap on and off without threading.

The NiSi True Color ND-Vario 1-5 Stops suits video and changing light, because one rotating ring covers 1 to 5 stops with hard stops at each end. The Haida NanoPro MC ND1000 suits long exposures, with a 10-stop cut and a 3.0 density, while the Tiffen Circular Polarizer suits buyers who want a long-running screw-in polarizer in sizes from 25 to 95 mm.

The Kase Revolution CPL and Variable ND 1.5-5 Stop Combined suits shooters who want a polarizer and a variable ND in one magnetic unit. The Urth Magnetic CPL Filter Plus+ suits buyers who want Schott B270 glass with a 20-layer nano coating in a magnetic mount. Read the table next, then match the filter type and thread size to your main lens.

Quick comparison table

Use this table to narrow the list before you read the detailed sections. It compares the filter type, the thread sizes, the coating and glass, the light effect, and the shooter each filter fits best. Every model here is a real screw-in or magnetic filter that fits mirrorless camera lenses by thread size.

How we selected

This guide started with the limits in the search: a real filter that fits mirrorless camera lenses by thread size, a type that changes the image in a way editing cannot copy, and a model with published specs from the maker. Each filter adds a different strength, such as a magnetic mount, a wide size range, or a variable density range.

Why a polarizer comes first

A polarizer comes first because it cuts reflections from water, glass, and wet leaves, and it deepens blue skies in a way no slider can copy after the shot. Four of the seven filters here are polarizers, and each one rotates on the lens so you can dial the effect up or down while you watch the scene change through the viewfinder or the rear screen.

The effect depends on the angle between the camera and the sun, so a polarizer works best when the sun sits to the side rather than behind the camera. At the strongest setting, skies turn deep blue and reflections drop away, while at a lighter setting the effect stays subtle. That control is why a polarizer earns the first slot in a filter kit for landscape, travel, and street shooting.

A polarizer also cuts some light, so shutter speeds drop and the camera may raise the ISO in dim conditions. That trade-off matters indoors and at dusk, which is why most shooters keep the polarizer off the lens until they step outside. Buy the polarizer first, then add an ND filter once you know you want longer exposures.

What a fixed ND adds to a mirrorless kit

A fixed ND filter adds long exposures in bright light, because it cuts the same amount of light across the whole frame and lets the shutter stay open for seconds. The Haida NanoPro MC ND1000 cuts 10 stops, which turns a bright waterfall into smooth silk and lets a wide aperture stay open in daylight for shallow depth of field.

Fixed ND filters come in set densities, so you pick the strength before the shoot and swap filters when the light changes. That sounds slow, yet it keeps the color neutral and the exposure predictable, which suits landscape work where the scene stays still and the tripod stays planted. A 10-stop filter is the most useful single strength for daylight long exposures.

The catch is focusing, because a 10-stop filter darkens the view so much that autofocus can hunt in dim light. The usual fix is to focus first, lock the focus, and then fit the filter before the exposure. Mirrorless cameras with an electronic viewfinder brighten the preview, which helps, yet manual focus after fitting the filter still suits many shooters.

How a variable ND fits video work

A variable ND fits video work because it lets the shutter speed stay at the cinematic setting while the light changes, without swapping filters between takes. The NiSi True Color ND-Vario covers 1 to 5 stops with one rotating ring, and the Kase Revolution combined filter covers 1.5 to 5 stops while adding a polarizer in the same unit.

The ring turns smoothly between hard stops, so the exposure changes in small steps and the operator can follow clouds or a move from shade into sun without cutting the take. That matters for mirrorless video, where the shutter speed sets the motion look and the aperture sets the depth of field, leaving the ND filter as the only clean way to control exposure in bright light.

Variable ND filters need care at wide focal lengths, because the two polarizing layers can show a cross pattern near the strong end of the range. NiSi recommends focal lengths of 35 mm and longer for its True Color ND-Vario, and the same caution applies to any variable ND. Match the filter to lenses at or above that length, and check the corners of the frame before a long take.

The filters in detail

Each section below follows the same pattern, so you can compare the filters side by side. It starts with who the filter fits best, then covers the type, the sizes, the coating and glass, the light effect, and the main trade-offs. Each profile also notes when to buy it and when to skip it.

Marumi EXUS Circular PL

This filter fits travelers and landscape shooters who want one polarizer for most outdoor work. The Marumi EXUS Circular PL is a screw-in circular polarizer in sizes from 37 to 82 mm, with an antistatic multi-coating, a water and oil repellent surface, and a slim frame that suits wide-angle lenses without adding bulk to the front of the lens.

The maker states that the filter transmits 30 percent more light than conventional polarizers, which helps keep shutter speeds usable in shade, and the ultra-low reflection rate of under 0.6 percent comes from black ink on the outer rim of the glass and a special frame structure. The male threads carry a Teflon coating, so the filter screws on and off smoothly and resists jamming on the lens.

The trade-off is the light loss, which the maker does not publish for this model, so buyers should expect the usual polarizer darkening and plan shutter speeds around it. The slim frame also has no front thread on some sizes, so stacking a second filter or a lens cap on the front may not work on every size. Check the front thread on the size you buy before you plan a stacked setup.

Pros: Antistatic and water and oil repellent coatings, a slim frame for wide-angle lenses, sizes from 37 to 82 mm, and a maker-stated 30 percent higher light transmission than conventional polarizers.

Cons: Light loss is Not stated by the maker, the front thread varies by size, and the slim frame leaves little room for stacking a second filter on some sizes.

Buy it for the strongest all-around first polarizer in this guide. Skip it if you need a magnetic mount or a published light loss figure before you buy.

Kenko PRO1D+ Instant Action CPL

This filter fits shooters who swap filters often and want the polarizer on and off in seconds. The Kenko PRO1D+ Instant Action CPL is a circular polarizer in sizes from 49 to 82 mm, and it attaches with a magnetic adapter ring that stays on the lens, so the filter snaps into place instead of threading on.

The coating set covers anti-stain, water repellent, and anti-reflection layers, and the aluminum frame keeps the unit light on the front of a small mirrorless lens. The magnetic adapter comes in the box in the same thread size as the filter, so the kit works out of the box with no extra ring to buy for the first lens.

The trade-off is that the filter has no thread of its own, so it only works with the magnetic adapter fitted, and a second lens needs its own adapter ring. The light loss is also Not stated by the maker, so buyers should expect the usual polarizer darkening. The magnetic hold is strong for normal use, yet the filter should come off before the camera goes into a tight bag pocket where it could catch.

Pros: A magnetic adapter for fast swaps, anti-stain and water repellent coatings, an aluminum frame, and sizes from 49 to 82 mm.

Cons: Light loss is Not stated by the maker, the filter needs its magnetic adapter to mount, and each extra lens needs its own adapter ring.

Buy it for the fastest polarizer swaps in this guide. Skip it if you want a plain screw-in filter or a published light loss figure before you buy.

Tiffen Circular Polarizer

This filter fits buyers who want a long-running screw-in polarizer with the widest size range here. The Tiffen Circular Polarizer uses ColorCore glass, which laminates the polarizing material between two pieces of optical glass, and it comes in sizes from 25 to 95 mm, which covers tiny kit lenses and large professional zooms alike.

The aluminum frame keeps the filter light, and the screw-in mount fits any mirrorless lens with a matching front thread, with no adapter or extra part to buy. That simplicity suits beginners, because the filter threads on like a lens cap and rotates on the lens to set the polarizing effect, with no learning curve beyond turning the front ring while watching the scene.

The trade-off is the coating and the light loss, which the maker does not publish for this standard model, so buyers who want a stated nano coating should look at the Marumi or the Urth instead. The wide size range also means the smallest sizes suit compact lenses while the largest sizes suit telephoto zooms, so the thread size on your own lens decides the size to buy, not the range as a whole.

Pros: ColorCore glass, an aluminum frame, sizes from 25 to 95 mm, and a plain screw-in mount with no adapter needed.

Cons: Coating and light loss are Not stated by the maker, the frame is aluminum rather than brass, and the wide size range still needs an exact thread match to your lens.

Buy it for the widest size range and the simplest screw-in mount here. Skip it if you need a stated coating or a magnetic mount for fast swaps.

NiSi True Color ND-Vario 1-5 Stops

This filter fits video shooters and landscape photographers who work in changing light. The NiSi True Color ND-Vario 1-5 Stops is a variable neutral density filter in sizes from 40.5 to 105 mm, with a density range of 0.3 to 1.5, a 1 to 5 stop cut, and a rotating front ring with a tactile hard stop at each end of the range.

The glass is high-definition optical glass with a NiSi Nano coating that resists water, oil, and reflections, and the machined aluminum frame has knurled side edges for grip. The front thread is one step larger than the lens thread on most sizes, which keeps the filter out of the frame on wider lenses, and the 49 to 95 mm sizes also work as the base of the NiSi SWIFT push-on system.

The trade-off is the wide-angle limit, because NiSi recommends focal lengths of 35 mm and longer to avoid cross polarization at the strong end of the range. The filter also adds thickness to the front of the lens, so very wide lenses may still show vignetting with a lens hood fitted. Check the corners of the frame at your widest focal length before a long shoot.

Pros: A 1 to 5 stop range with hard stops at each end, True Color glass with no X effect at the strong end, a NiSi Nano coating, and sizes from 40.5 to 105 mm.

Cons: Best at 35 mm and longer, the thicker front can vignette on very wide lenses with a hood, and the variable range costs more than a single fixed ND strength.

Buy it for video and changing light where one filter must cover several strengths. Skip it if you shoot mostly below 35 mm or want the lowest cost single ND strength.

Haida NanoPro MC ND1000

This filter fits landscape shooters who want long exposures in bright daylight. The Haida NanoPro MC ND1000 is a fixed neutral density filter with a 3.0 optical density and a 10-stop light cut, in sizes from 49 to 112 mm, built from optical glass with 10 layers of anti-reflection coating plus a nano coating that beads water and oil.

The 10-stop cut turns a bright scene dark enough for multi-second exposures, which smooths waterfalls, blurs clouds, and clears moving people from a frame. The fixed density keeps the color neutral across the frame, and the nano coating helps the glass clean up after rain or sea spray, which suits coastal and waterfall work where the front element gets wet.

The trade-off is the frame, which the maker does not state for this model, so buyers who need a stated brass or aluminum frame should check the listing for their size before buying. The 10-stop strength also darkens the viewfinder a lot, so focus first and lock focus before fitting the filter, or use the electronic viewfinder preview to compose after the filter is on.

Pros: A 10-stop cut with 3.0 density, 10 layers of anti-reflection coating per surface plus a nano coating, sizes from 49 to 112 mm, and neutral color across the frame.

Cons: Frame material is Not stated by the maker, the 10-stop strength darkens the view a lot, and focusing needs care after the filter is fitted.

Buy it for the strongest single long-exposure filter in this guide. Skip it if you need a variable range or a stated frame material before you buy.

Kase Revolution CPL and Variable ND 1.5-5 Stop Combined

This filter fits shooters who want a polarizer and a variable ND in one magnetic unit. The Kase Revolution CPL and Variable ND 1.5-5 Stop Combined pairs a circular polarizer with a variable neutral density range of 1.5 to 5 stops, and it mounts magnetically on a 77 mm adapter ring that comes in the box.

The glass is KW optical glass with a multi-coating that resists reflections and repels water and oil on both sides, and the magnetic mount lets the filter snap on and off the adapter without threading. The combined design cuts the number of filters in the bag, because one unit handles glare control and exposure control together, which suits travel kits where space is tight.

The trade-off is the single listed size of 77 mm, so lenses with smaller threads need a step-up ring to use it, and the combined effect means the polarizer cannot come off while the ND stays on. The light loss from the polarizer adds to the ND range, so the total darkening at the strong end is more than 5 stops, which suits bright light yet needs care in shade.

Pros: A polarizer and a variable ND in one unit, a 1.5 to 5 stop ND range, KW optical glass with multi-coating, and a magnetic mount with an adapter ring in the box.

Cons: Listed at 77 mm only, the polarizer cannot separate from the ND, and the total darkening at the strong end runs past 5 stops.

Buy it for the most compact two-in-one filter in this guide. Skip it if you want the polarizer and the ND as separate filters or a size other than 77 mm.

Urth Magnetic CPL Filter Plus+

This filter fits buyers who want premium glass in a magnetic polarizer. The Urth Magnetic CPL Filter Plus+ uses German Schott B270 optical glass with a 20-layer nano coating, and it cuts 99.9 percent of polarized light from water, glass, and non-metallic surfaces, in sizes from 37 to 95 mm.

The frame is an ultra slim magnalium rim, which keeps the filter light on the front of a mirrorless lens and suits wide-angle use without adding bulk. The magnetic mount works with the Urth magnetic adapter system, so the filter snaps on and off, and the 20-layer nano coating helps water and oil bead off the glass for easier cleaning in the field.

The trade-off is the light loss, which the maker does not publish for this model, so buyers should expect the usual polarizer darkening. The magnetic system also needs the matching adapter ring on the lens, so a first-time buyer should confirm the adapter size matches the lens thread before ordering, and each extra lens needs its own adapter.

Pros: Schott B270 glass with a 20-layer nano coating, a 99.9 percent cut of polarized light, an ultra slim magnalium rim, and sizes from 37 to 95 mm.

Cons: Light loss is Not stated by the maker, the magnetic system needs a matching adapter ring, and each extra lens needs its own adapter.

Buy it for premium glass in a magnetic polarizer. Skip it if you want a plain screw-in filter or a published light loss figure before you buy.

Buying guide for best filters for mirrorless cameras

Start with your main lens, because the thread size on that lens decides every filter you can buy. Then match the filter type to your shooting, choose between a screw-in mount and a magnetic mount, and leave room in your kit for cleaning cloths and a filter case that keeps the glass safe.

Match the best filters for mirrorless cameras to your lens thread

Match the thread size to your lens before you compare coatings or brands, because a filter only fits when its thread matches the number printed on the lens cap or the front ring. Common mirrorless thread sizes run from 37 mm on compact primes to 82 mm on professional zooms, and every filter in this guide lists its size range in the table above.

Buy the filter in your largest lens thread size when you own several lenses, then use step-up rings to fit that filter to smaller lenses. That trick keeps one polarizer working across the whole kit, and it costs less than buying a polarizer in every size. Step-down rings do the opposite and can cause vignetting, so avoid them for wide-angle lenses.

Check the size twice before ordering, because a 67 mm filter will not fit a 72 mm lens, and a wrong size means a return. The number sits on the inside of the lens cap or on the front ring of the lens, usually next to a small diameter mark, so read it off the lens itself rather than guessing from the lens name.

Choose between screw-in and magnetic mounts

Choose between a screw-in mount and a magnetic mount based on how often you swap filters during a shoot. Screw-in filters thread on and stay put, which suits a polarizer that lives on the lens all day, while magnetic filters snap on and off in a second, which suits video work and fast light changes where the filter comes off between takes.

Magnetic systems need an adapter ring on each lens, so the first lens costs one ring and each extra lens adds another. That adds up across a kit, yet the speed in the field often pays for it on a busy shoot. Screw-in filters need no adapter, so they cost less to start, yet threading a filter on and off with cold hands or gloves takes longer and risks cross-threading.

Stacking also differs, because magnetic filters stack by snapping together while screw-in filters stack by threading one onto the front of another. Stacking two filters can vignette on wide lenses, so test the combination at your widest focal length before a shoot, and keep the stack to two filters at most on lenses wider than 24 mm.

Plan cleaning and storage for your filters

Plan cleaning before your first outdoor shoot, because a dirty filter softens every image it sits in front of, and a scratched coating cannot be fixed. Carry a microfiber cloth and a blower, blow dust off first, then wipe in a circle from the center outward, and never wipe a dry filter that still holds sand or grit.

Plan storage too, because filters rattle and scratch each other in a loose pocket. Keep each filter in its own case or pouch, keep the magnetic adapter rings on the lenses they belong to, and store the cases in a padded pocket of the camera bag where they cannot slide against metal buckles or zippers.

Plan for rain last, because coated filters shed water yet still need a wipe after a wet shoot. Dry the glass before it goes back in the case, check the threads for grit before the next mount, and replace a filter whose coating has worn thin, because a tired coating flares more and cleans less well than a fresh one.

Frequently asked questions

The questions below cover the choices that cause the most confusion after buyers have read the product sections. They focus on UV filters, stacking, and vignetting, because those three points decide most purchases in this group, so read them before you buy.

Do mirrorless cameras need a UV filter

No, a mirrorless camera does not need a UV filter for image quality, because digital sensors already carry a UV cut filter and the lens coatings handle haze. A UV filter still works as a clear protector for the front element, which suits rough travel and dusty locations where a scratch on a cheap filter costs less than a scratch on the lens.

The trade-off is flare, because every extra piece of glass adds two surfaces that can catch the sun. A coated UV filter flares less than an uncoated one, yet no UV filter beats no filter for pure image quality. Buy one for protection on a lens that faces sand, spray, or crowds, and leave it off when flare control matters most.

If you already own a polarizer, it covers the protection role outdoors while adding glare control, so a UV filter adds little on top. Spend the kit budget on the polarizer first, then add a UV filter only for a lens that needs a sacrificial front element.

Can you stack a polarizer and an ND filter

Yes, you can stack a polarizer and an ND filter, because the polarizer cuts glare while the ND cuts light, and the two effects add together without fighting each other. The usual order is the ND filter closest to the lens and the polarizer on the front, so the polarizer still rotates freely to set the glare cut.

Stacking adds thickness to the front of the lens, so wide-angle lenses may show dark corners from vignetting, and each extra glass surface adds a small flare risk when shooting toward the sun. Test the stack at your widest focal length before a shoot, and drop the stack to one filter if the corners darken.

The Kase Revolution combined filter avoids stacking altogether, because it puts a polarizer and a variable ND in one unit. That suits travel kits where space is tight, yet it locks the two effects together, so shooters who want the polarizer alone should keep the two filters separate.

Will a filter cause vignetting on wide lenses

Yes, a filter can cause vignetting on wide lenses, because the frame adds thickness in front of the lens and the corners of the frame can block light at the edges of the image. Slim frames cut that risk, and a larger front thread on the NiSi True Color ND-Vario keeps the filter out of the frame.

The risk rises with stacking, with lens hoods, and with focal lengths below 24 mm on a full frame camera, or below 16 mm on an APS-C camera. A single slim filter rarely vignettes at 24 mm, yet two stacked filters often do, so test the exact combination on your own lens before a shoot that matters.

If the corners darken, the fix is simple: remove the lens hood, drop one filter from the stack, or buy the filter in a larger size with a step-up ring. A step-up ring moves the filter farther from the front element, which sounds worse yet actually keeps the frame out of the image corners on many wide lenses.

Conclusion

Choose the Marumi EXUS Circular PL for the best first polarizer, the Kenko PRO1D+ CPL for fast swaps, the NiSi True Color ND-Vario for video, the Haida NanoPro MC ND1000 for long exposures, the Tiffen Circular Polarizer for the widest range, the Kase combined filter for two effects in one unit, or the Urth Magnetic CPL Plus+ for premium glass.