A thin TV speaker leaves dialogue flat and action scenes without weight, so a separate subwoofer is the upgrade that changes the result most. This guide compares eight best soundbars and subwoofers systems, from a complete surround package to a compact bar and subwoofer set, and explains who each one suits and where it falls short.
Quick verdict: the best soundbars and subwoofers at a glance
If you want one short answer, start with the Samsung HW-Q990F for the most complete system in this guide, or the Samsung HW-Q800D if you want true height sound at a mid-range tier. The JBL Bar 500 is the tidiest two-box setup here, while the Samsung HW-B750F is the simplest budget package with a real wireless subwoofer in the box.
For most living rooms, the HW-Q990F is the safest flagship choice because it ships with a wireless subwoofer and wireless rear speakers, so surround and height effects come from real speakers rather than processing alone. If your room is smaller or your seating sits against a wall, the HW-Q800D or the JBL Bar 500 will give you deeper bass without rear speakers behind you.
Quick comparison table
Use this table to narrow the list by channel layout, subwoofer and rear speakers before reading the individual sections. The differences that matter most are whether rear speakers are included, whether the subwoofer is wireless, and whether the system uses up-firing drivers for height effects or relies on virtual processing instead.
| Model | Best for | Channels | Subwoofer | Rear speakers | Sound formats | Connection |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Samsung HW-Q990F | Complete home theater | 11.1.4 | Wireless, dual 8-inch | Wireless, included, up-firing | Dolby Atmos, DTS:X | HDMI eARC |
| Samsung HW-Q800D | Mid-range Atmos value | 5.1.2 | Wireless, 8-inch | Optional, sold separately | Dolby Atmos, DTS:X | HDMI eARC |
| Samsung HW-Q600F | Entry Atmos with a subwoofer | 3.1.2 | Wireless, included | Optional, sold separately | Dolby Atmos, DTS Virtual:X | HDMI eARC |
| Samsung HW-B750F | Budget 5.1 package | 5.1 | Wireless, 6-inch | Optional, sold separately | Dolby Digital 5.1, DTS Virtual:X | HDMI ARC |
| LG S60T | Clear dialogue for LG TVs | 3.1 | Wireless, included | Not supported | Dolby Audio | HDMI ARC |
| Sony HT-S2000 | Compact Atmos bar | 3.1 | Built-in dual subwoofer | Optional, sold separately | Dolby Atmos, DTS:X | HDMI eARC |
| JBL Bar 500 | Simple two-box 5.1 | 5.1 | Wireless, 10-inch | Not supported | Dolby Atmos | HDMI eARC |
| Vizio M512a-H6 | Affordable Atmos with rears | 5.1.2 | Wireless, included | Wired, included | Dolby Atmos, DTS:X | HDMI eARC |
Two details deserve attention before you choose. The Sony HT-S2000 is the only pick here whose subwoofer is built into the bar, so it starts as a one-box system and adds an external subwoofer only if you buy one later. The Vizio M512a-H6 is an older model, so check current availability and the condition of the listing before you order.
How we selected these bar and subwoofer systems
Every system in this guide is a real product with published manufacturer specifications, and every one includes a separate subwoofer in the box or is built around one that can be added. We compared channel layout, subwoofer size and connection, whether rear speakers were included or optional, Dolby Atmos and DTS:X support, and HDMI connections.
This guide is based on published specifications and independent review coverage, not on testing of its own, and it does not rank products by review scores, because scores use different methods and change with each update. We left out soundbars with only a built-in subwoofer and no expansion path, bars that need a subwoofer bought separately with no matching option, and models whose specifications could not be verified.
A separate subwoofer needs floor space and a power outlet, yet it makes deep film effects feel physical rather than merely audible. That is the trade-off here: a slim bar alone cannot move enough air for low effects, while a bar with a subwoofer gives movies, music and sports a weight that a single bar struggles to match.
Individual picks, from flagship surround to budget 5.1
The eight picks below move from the most complete surround systems to the simplest budget packages, so you can compare them in that order or jump to the section that matches your room. Each section states what is in the box, which formats it supports, who it suits best, and the limit that should decide whether you skip it for another pick.
Samsung HW-Q990F: the complete 11.1.4 surround system
The Samsung HW-Q990F is the most complete system in this guide, with an 11.1.4 channel layout, 23 speakers in total, a wireless subwoofer with dual 8-inch drivers, and two wireless rear speakers with up-firing drivers. It supports Dolby Atmos and DTS:X, connects through HDMI eARC, and adds Q-Symphony with compatible Samsung TVs.
That completeness suits a main living room or a dedicated movie room, especially if you want real speakers behind and above you rather than a virtual effect. The bar is 48.5 inches wide, so it suits larger TVs, and the rear speakers and subwoofer each need a power outlet, even though no audio cable runs to them. Two HDMI 2.1 inputs pass 4K at 120Hz, so a console and a streaming box can both connect through the bar.
Buy it if you want the fullest package here in a single purchase. Skip it if your room is small, you do not want rear speakers behind you, or your TV has no HDMI eARC port, since the highest-quality audio formats need that connection.
Samsung HW-Q800D: true height sound at a mid-range tier
The Samsung HW-Q800D is the balanced pick here, with a true 5.1.2 layout, 11 speakers, and a listed total power of 360 watts. Samsung lists up-firing and side-firing drivers in the bar, a wireless 8-inch subwoofer, Wireless Dolby Atmos, and DTS:X support, so height effects come from real drivers rather than processing alone.
It has one HDMI input and one HDMI output with eARC, and it passes 4K video at 60Hz with HDR10+, which covers most streaming boxes and disc players but not 4K at 120Hz gaming passthrough. An optional SWA-9500S rear kit can be added later, so the system can grow from a front-only setup into true surround when the room allows it.
Buy it if you want real height channels and a wireless subwoofer without the size or scope of the flagship system. Skip it if you play console games at 4K and 120Hz through the bar, or if you want rear speakers included in the box rather than bought separately.
Samsung HW-Q600F: the entry Atmos system with a subwoofer
The Samsung HW-Q600F is the entry point into Dolby Atmos in this guide, with a 3.1.2 channel layout, nine speakers, two up-firing channels and a dedicated centre speaker. Retailer listings give a total power of 380 watts, and the system ships with a wireless subwoofer, Wireless Dolby Atmos, Q-Symphony, Adaptive Sound and SpaceFit Sound Pro.
The format support is narrower than the two Samsung models above it: the HW-Q600F supports Dolby Atmos and DTS Virtual:X, not DTS:X, so Blu-ray discs that carry only a DTS:X track will not play in that format. An optional SWA-9250S rear kit can be added later for true surround, and the centre channel keeps dialogue clear without turning the volume up for every scene.
Buy it if you want Atmos height effects and a wireless subwoofer at the lowest tier in this guide that still offers them. Skip it if DTS:X matters for your disc collection, or if you want rear speakers in the box from the start.
Samsung HW-B750F: the affordable 5.1 package
The Samsung HW-B750F is the affordable pick in this guide, and it earns that place by including the two things that matter most at its tier: a dedicated centre channel and a real wireless subwoofer. Samsung lists a 5.1 channel system with six speakers, 400 watts of total power, and a 6-inch wireless subwoofer.
There is no Dolby Atmos and no HDMI eARC port, so this is a 5.1 system that plays surround sound well rather than a height-effects system. The centre channel keeps dialogue clear, the subwoofer adds the low end that a bar alone cannot produce, and optional SWA-9250S rear speakers can be added later for true surround. The bar is 40.6 inches wide, and it connects through HDMI ARC or optical, with Bluetooth for music.
Buy it if you want a complete bar and subwoofer package at the lowest tier in this guide and you can live without Dolby Atmos. Skip it if you need Dolby Atmos, DTS:X or an eARC connection, or if your TV is small enough that a 40-inch bar will overhang the stand.
LG S60T: clearer dialogue for everyday LG TVs
The LG S60T is the pick for viewers who mainly want clearer dialogue and fuller sound from an everyday LG TV. Retail listings describe a 3.1 channel layout with a dedicated centre channel, a wireless subwoofer, Dolby Audio support and a listed total power of 340 watts.
The centre channel is the point of this system: dialogue sits in its own channel instead of sharing drivers with music and effects, so speech stays clear at lower volumes. There is no Dolby Atmos, which fits the way this system is meant to be used, as a straightforward upgrade from TV speakers rather than a home theater build. Pairing with a compatible LG TV can add WOW Orchestra, which plays the TV speakers together with the soundbar.
Buy it if you own an LG TV, dialogue clarity is your main complaint, and you want a simple bar and subwoofer set without height effects. Skip it if you want Dolby Atmos or DTS:X, or if you plan to add rear speakers later, since this system does not support them.
Sony HT-S2000: a compact Atmos bar with room to grow
The Sony HT-S2000 is the compact pick in this guide, a 3.1 channel bar about 31.5 inches wide with five speakers, 250 watts of total power, and a built-in dual subwoofer. It supports Dolby Atmos and DTS:X through the Vertical Surround Engine and S-Force PRO, which create height and surround effects without up-firing drivers.
Because the subwoofer is built in, the HT-S2000 starts as a single box that needs no floor space for a separate subwoofer, which suits a bedroom, a small living room or a second TV. If you later want deeper bass or real surround, Sony offers the optional SA-SW3 and SA-SW5 wireless subwoofers and the SA-RS3S rear speakers. It connects through a single HDMI eARC output, with Bluetooth 5.2 for music.
Buy it if your room is small, your TV is 55 inches or smaller, and you want Atmos in one tidy box with an upgrade path. Skip it if you want a separate subwoofer in the box from the start, or if you need an HDMI input on the bar for a console or streaming box.
JBL Bar 500: the simplest two-box 5.1 setup
The JBL Bar 500 is the pick for buyers who want 5.1 sound without placing rear speakers. It ships as a 5.1 channel system with a 40-inch bar and a 10-inch wireless subwoofer, using MultiBeam processing to create the surround effect from the front of the room.
JBL lists 590 watts of total power, 290 from the bar and 300 from the subwoofer, with Dolby Atmos supported through HDMI eARC and 4K Dolby Vision passthrough. PureVoice keeps dialogue clear, and Wi-Fi, Chromecast, AirPlay and Bluetooth 5.0 cover music streaming. The limits are clear: the Bar 500 does not support DTS, and it does not support add-on rear speakers, so the surround effect stays virtual.
Buy it if you want strong bass and a simple two-box setup with no speakers behind the sofa. Skip it if you watch Blu-ray discs that need DTS decoding, or if you want real rear speakers now or later.
Vizio M512a-H6: affordable Atmos with real rear speakers
The Vizio M512a-H6 is the affordable way into real Atmos with rear speakers in this guide, with a 5.1.2 channel layout, 11 speakers and two up-firing height drivers in the bar. It ships with a wireless subwoofer and two surround speakers, and it supports Dolby Atmos and DTS:X.
The rear speakers connect by cable to the subwoofer, so the subwoofer needs to sit close enough for those cables to reach behind the seating area, and that placement limit is the main trade-off against the wireless rears on the Samsung flagship. It connects through HDMI eARC with an additional HDMI input, plus optical, and the remote is included in the box.
This is an older model, so check current availability and the condition of the listing before you order, and confirm that the seller is offering a new unit rather than a renewed one. Buy it if you want real rear speakers and height drivers at a value tier. Skip it if you cannot find a new unit from a seller you trust, or if wired rears will not reach your seating.
Buying guide: choose by room, connections and bass
A bar and subwoofer system is a room purchase as much as an electronics purchase, so the checks below matter more than the channel count on the box. Measure the TV stand, find the HDMI port on the TV, and think about where a subwoofer and any rear speakers will sit before you decide.
How to choose among the best soundbars and subwoofers for your room
Room size decides the system before price does, so start with the space rather than the specification sheet. A compact bar suits a bedroom or a small apartment living room, while a large open room needs a wider bar, a real subwoofer and rear speakers behind the sofa.
For a 55-inch TV, a bar around 40 to 46 inches wide looks balanced, and a 65-inch or larger TV suits the 48-inch Samsung HW-Q990F. A large subwoofer in a small bedroom can overwhelm dialogue, so the Bass Boost and night modes on the Samsung models and the dialogue modes on the JBL and Sony bars are worth using once the system is set up.
Subwoofer placement, size and wireless range
A wireless subwoofer still needs a power outlet, and that single fact decides most placement choices. The subwoofer can sit beside the TV stand, in a corner, or along a side wall, but it should not be boxed in behind heavy furniture, because the bass will sound muffled and the wireless link needs a clear path.
Size matters for the same reason. A 10-inch subwoofer such as the one in the JBL Bar 500 suits a larger room, while a 6-inch or compact subwoofer suits a smaller room and is easier to place. Measure the floor space and check the outlet before you buy, and remember that the Vizio rear speakers connect to its subwoofer by cable.
HDMI ARC, eARC and optical: what actually matters
The connection on the back of the TV decides which sound formats the soundbar can receive, so check it before you buy. HDMI eARC carries the highest-quality audio, including Dolby Atmos from Dolby TrueHD, while standard HDMI ARC carries compressed Atmos and Dolby Digital 5.1.
The Samsung HW-B750F and the LG S60T use standard HDMI ARC, which fits their Dolby Digital 5.1 and Dolby Audio formats, while most picks here use eARC. Optical carries Dolby Digital 5.1 and stereo, but it cannot carry Dolby Atmos at all. The Samsung HW-Q990F offers two HDMI inputs with 4K at 120Hz passthrough, while the HW-Q800D passes 4K at 60Hz only.
Do the best soundbars and subwoofers need rear speakers?
Rear speakers and a subwoofer solve different problems, and the distinction decides most purchases in this guide. A subwoofer fixes the low end, while rear speakers fix the sense of direction, so a system such as the JBL Bar 500 can sound full without rears, yet it cannot place an effect behind you.
Choose a system with rear speakers when you watch films in a room with space behind the seating area, and choose a front-only system when the seating is against a wall, the room is small, or you do not want extra boxes. Virtual surround can work well in a small room with walls close by, and it needs no extra boxes behind the seating area.
Frequently asked questions
The questions below cover the doubts that come up most often before a purchase, from whether a subwoofer is worth it at all to which size fits a common TV. Each answer follows the same rule as the rest of this guide: it states what the specifications support, and it names the case where the answer changes.
Is a soundbar with a subwoofer better than TV speakers?
Yes, in almost every case, because TV speakers face backward or downward from a thin cabinet and have little room for bass or a centre channel. A soundbar adds forward-facing drivers, a dedicated centre channel for dialogue and, in most picks here, a separate subwoofer for low end.
Is a wireless subwoofer really wireless?
A wireless subwoofer is wireless for audio, not for power, and that distinction catches many buyers out. The audio signal travels from the bar without a cable, so the subwoofer can sit away from the TV, but it still needs a power outlet, and in some systems the rear speakers connect by cable to the subwoofer.
The Vizio M512a-H6 is the example here, because its rear speakers connect to the subwoofer by cable. Before you buy, check whether the subwoofer is wireless and whether any other speaker connects to it by cable, because those details decide the placement.
Can I add a subwoofer to a soundbar that does not include one?
Some soundbars let you add a matching subwoofer later, and many do not, so the answer depends on the exact model rather than on soundbars in general. The Sony HT-S2000 is the clearest example here: it starts with a built-in subwoofer and accepts the optional SA-SW3 or SA-SW5 wireless subwoofers later.
If you already own a soundbar without a subwoofer, check the manufacturer page for a compatible subwoofer model before you buy anything, and do not assume that a subwoofer from another brand will pair with it. The same rule applies to rear speakers on the Samsung and Sony models here.
Conclusion
Start with the Samsung HW-Q990F for a complete home theater, or the Samsung HW-Q800D for height sound at a mid-range tier. If you want the simplest two-box setup, the JBL Bar 500 covers that need well, and the Samsung HW-B750F is the budget pick. Measure your TV and room, check the HDMI connection, and choose the system you will enjoy every day.
Write Your Review
No reviews yet. Be the first to share your experience!